Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
